Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, Burgundy, France

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is a real gem of a medieval town in Burgundy. Lush countryside and agriculture, historic structures, great hikes, wonderful food, local wine. The town served as the set for the movie Chocolate.  What’s not to like?

Here is a sketch from our recent visit to see friends in Flavigny last weekend. Below that, you’ll find some suggestions, and below that you’ll find a map:

A chapel and (former) pigsties - Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, France(Doug, ©2012)

Some of my favourite things from our short visit:

  • Lunch at La Grange: just in front of the village parish, St. Genès. Local farmers offer a reasonably priced lunch based on their local produce, served up in an old hall with a great atmosphere.
  • A visit to the Carolingian crypt under the former Abbey of St. Pierre (ca. AD 800s). Dating from the time of Charlemagne and his sons, this structure provides a fragmentary glimpse of an early church structure. I’m partial to Carolingian history, as it was a time of cultural reawakening after centuries of turbulence in the aftermath of the collapse of the Roman empire.
  • Maison des Arts Textiles et du Design is a wonderful small museum, training centre and shop, where the history of textiles in the region is presented alongside art in modern fabric design by a real master. Gorgeous stuff and interesting content.        (a visual presentation)
  • Hiking on any of the trails around the valley of the Ozerain river.
  • The choir stalls of the St. Genès church date from hundreds of years ago and include some beautiful carvings including a few that bring some unexpected humour to an otherwise spiritual atmosphere.
  • Cut stone and stone carvings throughout the town. Paying attention to the old stones is well worth it, as some are quite elegant and artful, reflecting a spiritual quality. Just being there, pondering the stones, provides a cosmic connection to the sculptors of previous centuries.

Here is a map:

(If map doesn’t display properly, then click here)

 

Review: Domaine de Veilloux winery

Saturday was a gorgeous sunny day and spontaneously we headed out to the Loire Valley on a wine scouting expedition. It is beautiful countryside and after the spring rains, everything would be lush. Plus, we had an idea for a new destination: I’d just heard about the Domaine de Veilloux winery close to Cheverny, a town that is one of my traditional haunts.

Domaine de Veilloux winery

Lush countryside at Domaine De Veiloux

The Domaine de Veilloux winery caught my attention because of its fully organic approach to agriculture. They even have one brand of wine without additional sulfites, designed to be drunk young. Sulfite supplements are generally considered essential for protecting wine that is to be laid down.

M. Quenioux - Winery in the family 3 generations

 

The wines proved to be delightful. The whites are sauvignon-based blends, which include a new variety for me called menu pineau (a local Loire variety) and other grapes. The reds are pinot noir-based, blended with côt malbec and other varieties. Red or white, most of the wines are fresh and light, with nice fruit out front, just right for the approaching summer.  We also appreciated the wines labelled Les Veilleurs, which come from older vines and which were a bit more complex and subtle.

Domaine de Veilloux wines are mostly sold in France, but are also exported to Japan, other parts of Europe and the US. Recommended!